Our sun-dappled journey through the Iberian peninsula continued as we boarded a sleek river cruise ship for a leisurely voyage along the legendary Douro River. After immersing ourselves in the cosmopolitan cultures of Lisbon and Porto, it was time to explore the rural heart of Portugal and the lush vineyard-blanketed Douro Valley. In this post I share my Spain & Portugal Day 5 – Cruising the Douro (Pinhao) experience.
Embarking in Peso da Régua
We departed our charming hotel in the Vila Nova de Gaia port district of Porto, luggage in tow, for the 90-minute drive to the quaint town of Peso da Régua. This unassuming riverside village would be our launching point to join the luxurious Douro Azul river cruiser for the next few days.
Upon arrival, the efficient cruise staff promptly whisked our baggage away to our stateroom as we checked in at the embarkation lobby and received keys, daily schedules and unlimited beverage package wristbands. Within minutes we were sipping chilled white sangria and soaking in our first panoramic vistas of the Douro Valley’s blanketed vineyards from the ship’s sun-splashed top deck.
Settinga Sail on the Douro
As the Douro Azul pulled away from the Régua dock just after midday, we felt an incredible sense of relaxation wash over us. The stresses of transit, touring crowded cities, and keeping hectic schedules instantly melted away.
We had nowhere special to be but anywhere the mighty Douro River would take us over the next few days. Our journey would be one of “Sunderers”: savoring the lush landscapes, historic wine estates known as quintas, and timeless villages slowly drifting past us.
Cruising under an azure Portuguese sky, we soaked in the Douro Valley’s picturesque scenery of precariously constructed rabelo boats once used for transporting casks of Port wine, rustic quintas clinging to the vertiginous slopes, and vibrant carpets of terraced vineyards planted on every surface unimaginable to most vintners.
Arriving in Pinhao
That afternoon, our Douro Azul vessel docked in Pinhao, considered the geographical heart of the Douro wine region and our first immersive stop. We disembarked for a guided orientation walk and tasting at one of the area’s most iconic wine estates, Quintada Roeda.
While Pinhao itself is a tiny village of only around 20,000 souls, it packs a huge punch of history, tradition and unparalleled Port and vino verde winemaking. Our local guide regaled us with tales of the unique terracer vineyards dating back thousands of years, which today produce some of the world’s most coveted and exclusive vintage Port varieties.
Stepping into Quintada Roeda’s rustic lodgehouse and tasting room was like entering a sumptuous time capsule. We admired the original hand-presses and granite lagars, or shallows basins, used for centuries to stomp grape harvests with bare feet. Our enthusiastic vintner guide uncorked an impressive vertical tasting showcasing the estate’s distinctive Port profiles – from zesty and fruit-forward white and ruby Ports to nutty and leathery tawny and vintage varieties.
While indulging in our tasting, we soaked in breathtaking panoramas of Pinhao’s famous tiled rabelo boats drifting along the quiet Douro. I also marveled at the region’s ubiquitous wine “rails” climbing the impossibly steep valley walls as far as the eye could see – the only practical way to tend and harvest the brutal slopes. These regional signature visuals simultaneously felt frozen in time and yet ingrained in the permanent rhythms of winemaking, like clockwork.
Dinner Onboard with Port Pairings
After our enlightening Port tastings in Pinhao, the ship crew warmly welcomed us back on board to unwind in our stateroom as we prepared for the first of the cruise’s included gourmet dinners. This evening’s multicourse affair promised a special “Port wine pairing experience,” allowing us to showcase our newly-minted Port prowess.
As the Douro Azul slipped her moorings in Pinhao just after sunset, we assembled in the vessel’s glass-walled dining salon to savor each delicious course artfully accompanied by various premium Port vintages and styles. An eager-to-educate sommelier guided our palates through the complex notes and perfect pairings of each selection, matching the robust character of the wines with things like creamy piri piri shrimp in garlic olive oil, peppery picalho chorizo, and velvety Serra da Estrela DOP cheese.
My personal highlight was a flight of aged Tawny Ports, including a 20-year vintage variety, that utterly dazzled with its rich kaleidoscope of nutty, caramel and dried fruit notes. My other revelation was white Port, a rare regional style we sampled alongside a decadent lemon olive oil charred cod entree. Many diners admittedly scoffed at first sip, but the zippy citrus-honeyed character proved magical with the roasted seafood.
With the silky Douro waters reflecting a star-studded tableau outside, the chef’s decadent desserts like pastel de nata custard tarts and rich chocolate mousse paired with ruby and vintage character Ports beautifully capped the affair. I also sipped one of the aromatics cups of coffee in memory – a smooth, velvety Portuguese blend that make every future cup pale in comparison.
A Picturesque Cruise into Sunset
Although thunderous applause from our satisfied group could have easily brought the evening to a close, the crew gamely encouraged everyone to bundle up for one final fresh air hurrah. As the Douro Azul continued its upstream meandering, we splashed out onto the top deck with our beverages in hand to take in an incredibly scenic sunset cruise.
As a DJ spun subdued house beats, the open-air upper decks afforded sublime views of the dramatically chiseled vineyards and granite peaks aglow in fiery shades of crimson and amber. In the distance, we watched rays of light catch the signature whitewashed quintas as they flickered like phantoms amidst the fiery hillsides. All the while, the Douro’s smooth currents lapped in perfect accompaniment, utterly mesmerizing.
Eventually the ship would dock in the small village of Ferrao for overnight mooring, allowing our merry band of wine aficionados to stumble sleepily to our rooms. But not before one final nightcap from the top deck bar under a tapestry of twinkling celestial bodies – a perfect ending to our sublime introductory cruise through Portugal’s Port wine nirvana.
Tips for Douro River Cruising
Whether you’re cruising for just a day or embarking on a weeklong Port wine pilgrimage, the Douro River Valley offers an incredible setting for leisurely indulgence combined with immersive Cultural Touring. A few tips:
• Consider timing April through October for optimal mild, sunny weather conditions
• Join a guided Port tasting and vineyard tour in charming Pinhao and other villages
• Reserve a room with a balcony to fully soak in the incredible vineyard vistas
• Linger over gourmet meals paired with flights of premium Port wines
• Watch for signage about the Douro’s unique terraced vineyards and rabelo boats
• Take advantage of docking by walking or biking between quaint quintas
• Finally, don’t miss the open-air bars and lounges for sublime Douro sunsets!
Whether you’re an avid oenophile seeking to sip rare Port vintages or simply crave basking in one of Europe’s most unforgettable river valley settings, devote ample time to cruising the Douro. Its waters flow through the heart and soul of Portuguese wine country, culture and cuisine – inviting you to become deliciously intoxicated by its charms. I hope you enjoyed my Spain & Portugal Day 5 – Cruising the Douro (Pinhao).