After exploring Taiwan bustling cities, we looked forward to a more relaxed day taking in the pristine natural beauty of Sun Moon Lake. Taiwan’s largest freshwater lake is nestled among lush mountains in the geographic center of the island. Its serene blue waters have attracted travelers for centuries because of the dense forests and numerous sacred temples that surround it.
Arriving mid-morning, we headed straight for a short hike along Sun Moon Lake’s ring trail skirting the water’s edge below mist-shrouded mountains. Within minutes, I understood why the area is dubbed “nature’s oxygen bar” amongst locals. The crisp negative ion-rich air imparted refreshing energy with each breath while birdsong and insect chatter filled our ears instead of traffic din.
Strolling beneath soaring ficus and banyan trees with gnarled roots gripping the shoreline, we learned Sun Moon Lake’s name originates from unique dualities. The east side resembles a dazzling sun mirroring the lake’s round shape, while the west appears like a crescent moon bowing towards the water. I spotted small shrines honoring the sun goddess Dachenshu and moon goddess Yutu along the trail, reminding me of Taiwan’s vibrant living folk culture mingling Taoist, Buddhist and Confucianist deities.
After a comfortably-paced hike around Sun Moon Lake’s lower ring trail, we stopped to take the cable cars gliding over mountains to the lookout point at Cien Pagoda. Stepping onto the platforms of this nine-story red pagoda crowning Formosan jade hill, we had an eagle’s eye panorama of the entire lake and surrounding ranges rippling out for miles.
I immediately noticed Sun Moon Lake color shift from placid blues closer to the shores to deep emerald hues towards the center. Our guide explained massive 1999 earthquake tremors altered the lake’s depth allowing more light penetration for algae growth. Gazing out at fishing boats bobbing off templed islands, it was hard to imagine violent upheavals ever disturbing this peaceful tableau. The lake now appears healed and serene as if untouched by modern turbulences.
After admiring views of jade ranges rolling off into distant cloud-shrouded peaks, we rode the cable cars back down and hopped aboard a circular boat tour across the lake. It brought us upclose to Sun Moon Lake’s iconic Lalu Island crowned with the delicate arched Dragon Light Pagoda dedicated to matchmaking prayers. Newlyweds flock here hoping wishes inscribed on special locks fastened around the torii gate arching over the shoreline come true.
We disembarked at Xuanzang Temple devoted to the famed monk who journeyed for 16 years through over 100 kingdoms to bring back 657 scriptures and scrolls documenting more knowledge about India and China’s civilizations at the time than ever found in one place. Ancient columns, granite steles and flowing palm fronds shading the courtyard evoke the atmosphere of faraway worlds the devout monk experienced in his global quest.
Inside the main shrine honoring Xuanzang’s extraordinary scholarly pilgrimage, we quietly observed devotees lighting incense, bowing prayers and leaving offerings of flowers and fruit at the effigy’s feet. Our guide explained Xuanzang Temple now draws not just Buddhists but curious scholars from around the world interested in intercultural philosophies and history.
Leaving the temple, we dined lakeside on classic Taiwanese fare like braised meat noodle soup, stir fried local vegetables and delicate jellies for dessert as the golden hues of sunset reflected off the rippling water. After the past week exploring Taiwan exciting cities, it felt soothing to unwind beside Sun Moon Lake timeless beauty and sacred sites where scholars, newlyweds and spiritual pilgrims have gathered for generations. I drifted to sleep our mountain resort lulled by frog song from the shores below, restored by the healing energies circulating these misty heights.