Day 5 : Eastern Kyoto (Higashiyama)
This morning we checked out of Sanga before we went about our sightseeing. We were changing to Matsui Honkan, another ryokan nearby that night. We were late in our booking and many ryokans were already fully booked. Sanga was only available for 2 night. We had to book another ryokan for the third night. But while surfing the net subsequently, Matsui Honkan became available. It had good reviews so we switched. Later on a cheaper room at Sanga became available for the third night too. But we decided to stick with Matsui Honkan since it had better reviews than Sanga.
We took a taxi to Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion). As mentioned in my last post, Ginkakuji is modeled after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion). My Japanese friend tells me that the Japanese prefer Ginkakuji as it is simple and less opulent. Despite its name, Ginkakuji is not covered with silver. One of the many sayings is that moonlight reflecting on the temple’s exterior when it was previously covered in lacquer gave it a silvery appearance.
Ginkakuji, The Silver Pavilion
While Kinkakuji has a pond garden in front of it, Ginkakuji has a rock garden.
Rock Garden of Ginkukuki
Just outside Ginkakuji is the beginning of the well known Philosopher’s Walk. The cherry blossom here was beautiful despite heavy rain the day before causing many flowers to drop. The ground was full of fallen flowers. I can imagine how impressive it must have been when the trees were filled with the flowers. The path follows a canal which is lined by hundreds of cherry trees. This is another one of the city’s most popular hanami spots.
Along the canal along the Philosopher’s Walk there were side lanes which one can venture to explore the smaller temples. We did not do that as we already had a long day planned ahead.
Philosopher’s Walk
At the other end the Philosopher’s Walk which is about 2km long is Nanzenji. Nanzenji is a huge temple complex with many sub-temples. Nanzenji is also one of the most important Zen temple in Japan.
Nanzenji & its subtemples
The Hojo is the former head priest’s residence and Nanzenji’s main hall. It is famous for its rock garden. Also highly regarded are the paintings on the sliding door.
Hojo, Nanzanji
At the back of Nanzenji is an Auaduct. We went up the aqueduct and took a left. Walking to the end of the aqueduct, a trail leads off to the right to the Keage Incline.
Aquaduct, Nanzenji
The Keage Incline is another popular hanami spot in Kyoto. We were greeted by a stunning row of cherry trees lining an abandoned railway track. There were many couples in traditional wedding garb taking their photos there. They looked beautiful in their kimono with the cherry blossoms as a backdrop.
Keage Incline, a popular Hanami spot
Walking along the bottom on the Keage incline along the canal brought us to a giant tori gate. Walking through it we arrived at the Heian Shrine. The back garden of Heian Shrine has a grove of late blooming cherry trees. When we were there, the flowers were still buds and not fully bloomed yet. By this time, I was really hungry and tired and not really interested in the sightseeing. I want my food!
Heian Shrine
Leaving Heian Shrine. I ran into the first cafe I saw. I didn’t care if it was just simple curry rice and udon! I want to eat. But I must say the dessert here was pretty good!
Lunch at a café outside Heian Shrine
After the quick lunch we continued walking to Yasaka Shrine through Maruyama Park. We walked pass the giant weeping willow which we saw on our first night in Kyoto. By now, 2 days and a heavy downpour later, the tree is almost bear. So glad we came that first night. Yasaka shrine was small and many people were praying and making their wishes. We just lingered for a while and head off to Kodaiji which has a rock garden consisting of a large field of raked gravel meant to represent the vast ocean.
Kodaiji
By now I am a little templed and gardened out! Yet another rock garden and I am starting to not be able to tell them apart! But I must say the best was still the rock garden at Ryoanji we saw the day before.
Exiting Kodaji, we headed towards the streets of Higashiyama. Just when we walked several meters down the busy street, I spotted a Hello Kitty Cafe on the right! I must go, I am so tired and lunch did not fully satisfy me and hey it’s cute Hello Kitty! I am not really a Hello Kitty fan, but hey, I’m in Japan!
Traditional Kyoto sweets and tea & Hello Kitty Saryo
Hello Kitty Saryo serves Japanese sweets and teas in addition to proper meals for lunch and dinner. It is like a combination of traditional Japanese teahouse and Hello Kitty. I am so happy to be able to have my afternoon tea of traditional kyoto dessert and tea. All orders came with touches of Hello Kitty or Dear Daniel. Several large Hello Kitty dolls were seated at the tables between guests and “accompany” us during our meal. The cafe has large full length glass windows that look into a Zen garden decorated with Hello Kitty garden ornaments. Really cute.
I enjoyed my tea break here tremendously. A truly cutesy way to take an afternoon break and enjoy the Japanese sweets and dessert that Kyoto is great for. After this break, I was re-energized and ready to take another temple, Kiyomizudera, our last temple of the day.
The shopping street of Higashimaya was really interesting. I had to stop to browse and DH had to hurry me along so that we get to Kiyomizudera before they close for the day. I told myself we will come back after the temple visit.
Streets of Higashiyama
Streets of Higashiyama
Kiyomizudera is one of the most celebrated temples in Japan. It’s name literally means Pure Water Temple. This temple is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kiyomizudera
Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, 13 meters above the hillside below. The main hall and stage of Kiyomizudera was built without nails. The stage affords visitors view of the numerous cherry trees and maple trees below. During Sakura season and autumn, when the hills are covered in Autumn colours, Kiyomizudera is opened at night for spring or autumn illunination. The set photos of Kiyomizudera is taken from across the stage. Kiyomizudera is under renovation by stages. We were lucky that the wooden stage was not affected at the time of our visit. So before you visit, do check the status of the renovation to avoid disappointment.
The wooden stage of Kiyomizudera
Behind Kiyomizudera’s main halls is the Jishu Shrine, a shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. Devotees write this wishes on wooden plates and hang them up.
Jishu Shrine, Kiyomizudera
The Otowa Waterfall at the best of the main hall is considered lucky. There are 3 streams for different wishes and devotees and believers drink from it. I did not try as there was quite a crowd.
After we left the temple, we walked back to the streets of Higashiyama. But at that time, the temple has closed to day visitors and the Visitors coming for the night time illumination was coming in. I felt like I was swimming against the tide. There were so many people in the streets, we just hopped onto the nearest taxi to escape back to our ryokan.
We went back to Sanga to collect our backs and walked about 5 mins to our next ryokan, Matsui Honkan. Upon arrival at Matsui Honkan, we were served a welcome tea and snack before being shown to our room. We were told that their a a public bath on the ground floor. Not a hotspring bath through. This is a small hotel style ryokan rather than family style. Thus less personal.
Welcome tea & cake @ Matsui Honkan
Our room was small but adequate and our little balcony had a pretty decorated zen garden. Even the bathroom has a window opening to a mini zen rock garden. Very nice touch. Bathroom came with a tub for Japanese style bath. I was too lazy and tired to get to the public bath and decided to soak in the tub in our room instead. It was heaven after all the walking that day.
Room with mini zen garden in the balcony @ Matsui Honkan
Dinner was served in our room. It was of course any multi-course Kaiseki dinner. Food was good and quite refine as I would expect of kyoto style Kaiseki. Not disappointed. After dinner they came to clear the table and set up our futons. They were very thoughtful and left an origami bird on each of our pillows. I slept so well that night.
Kaiseki dinner at Matsui Honkan