Day 2 : Miyajima to Tomonoura
We woke up early and went to for a walk before the first ferry brings the day trippers. The morning was peaceful and the walk was pleasant. This morning the tide was higher and the shrine and torii gate both look like they are floating on the water.
Morning in Miyajima
Then it was back to our ryokan for breakfast. Breakfast was served in the dining room. It was standard Japanese breakfast, ie rice served with fish, pickles and a few other dishes. I must say the breakfast here is nothing to shout about. Very basic. Most other ryokans we stayed at previously served much better breakfast.
Simple Japanese breakfast @ Kinsuikan
After breakfast, we ventured out again. We wanted to take the ropeway to get to the top of Mt Mizen. DH wanted to take from photos from the top of Mt Mizen. Along the way we noticed the winds were very strong and we actually witnessed a Hanafubuki (Flower Snow Storm). It was like falling snow flakes! So beautiful!
Hanafubuk (Flower Snow Storm)
Unfortunately, when we got to the ropeway, we found out it was closed because of strong winds and impending rain. So we walked around and found ourselves at Daigan-ji. This temple was originally responsible for the repair of the Itsukushima Shrine and the Torii gate prior to the Shinto-Buddhism separation during the Meiji period.
Daigan-ji Temple, Miyajima
The sky was threatening to rain and since we couldn’t get to Mt Mizen, we decided to leave the island and get back to Hiroshima earlier than planned. After check out, the ryokan dropped us off at the ferry terminal.
We took the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi and caught the local train back to Hiroshima. Went to reserve our tickets on the Shinkansen to Fukuyama before we went in search for lunch. We had originally wanted to spend more time in Miyajima and to just get a bento lunch to eat on the train. Since we left Miyajima earlier, we went in search for the Okonomiyaki restaurant that we spotted the day before. We wanted to try the Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki which comes with noodles. It is different from the Osaka style which we are used to. Oh, and I had to have those oysters croquettes!!
Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki
After lunch we took the Shinkansen to Fukuyama. It took about 40 mins. From the Shinkansen platform at Fukuyama, you get a great view of Fukuyama castle.
Fukuyama Castle – View from the JR Shinkansen platform
We had arranged for a pickup at the train station by the ryokan at 1.40pm. As we had some time before our shuttle pick up, we went to UCC for some dessert and coffee. I love Japanese dessert!
Dessert @ UCC at Fukuyama Station
We were not exactly sure where to wait or what type of vehicle we were waiting for. We had expected to see a vehicle with the ryokan name or for someone to hold a card with our name or ryokan name. But it is actually a vehicle which is taking picking up pax for many hotels in Fukuyama. We actually missed it and called the hotel and the bus turned back to pick us.
Upon arrival at our ryokan, Keishokan Sazanamitei, we were served a welcome tea and snack before being shown to our room.
Welcome tea & snack @ Keishokan Sazanamitei
The ryokan is located by the sea. Unfortunately, it was raining the day we arrived and so the sky was grey. I’m sure it would have been beautiful if the sky was blue. Our room was facing the sea and had an attached outdoor onsen. We had paid more for this luxury and had no regrets. It was lovely
Our room with private outdoor onsen @ Keishokan Sazanamitei
We took the 1.40 pm shuttle, it took almost an hour to get to the hotel after they dropped off of various pax at different hotels. On hindsight, we should have taken a taxi and not be restricted by the shuttle time, and can arrive earlier. By the time we checked in and go out for a walk, it was after 3pm and even though it was a weekday (Friday), the shops close around 4pm. We were lucky that we got to the Ota residence which was nearby before it closed. My suggestion is to take a taxi and arrive early if you want to walk around the old town. We only had time to browse a few shops before all the shutters went down.
Tomonoura Old Town was the site for one of the scenes in Hugh Jackman’s Wolverine. It’s old wooden architecture buildings preserves the look of an old Japanese town. It was very rustic and pretty. We walked to the waterfront but the sky was so grey and we could not get good photos. We decided to come back early the next morning to try our luck.
Tomonoura Old Town
Tomonoura is well known for its herbal wine, Honmeishu. The Ota Residence belonged to a family that started brewing this wine with the 17th century. Visitors can view the various tatami rooms, tea rooms and Honmeishu storehouses.
Kaiseki dinner @ Keishokan Sazanamitei