Getting There & Buying Tickets

Tokyo Disneyland and its neighboring park, DisneySea, are located in the city of Urayasu in the western suburbs of Tokyo. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the Maihama station on the Disney Resort Line, or you can opt for buses or resort shuttles to get dropped off even closer.

To avoid wasting any time waiting in ticket lines on the day of, I highly recommend purchasing your tickets in advance online through the Tokyo Disney website or via an authorized third-party vendor. Not only can you select your desired park and date, but you can also buy bundles that include things like parking, PhotoPass, special FastPass options and Disney hotel packages. The time savings alone is worth it.

The Park’s Incredible Theming

What immediately struck me upon walking through the front gates of Tokyo Disneyland was just how incredibly themed and detailed every single aspect is. From the gorgeous, flower-lined paths to the Broadway-caliber costumes on cast members to themed snack carts spread throughout, you are completely transported into an alternate Disney reality. Everything is impeccably manicured and maintained too. Not a single trash can or directional sign looks out of place.

A quintessential photo stop is Partners Statue in the World Bazaar area right after the main entrance. Here you’ll find an iconic bronze sculpture of Mickey Mouse joyfully greeting visitors along with other classic Disney characters clustered around him. It’s one of the park’s most popular photo spots, especially with Cinderella’s castle majestically looming in the background.

The park’s seven themed lands include standards like Adventureland, Westernland (Frontierland), Fantasyland and Tomorrowland, along with some unique-to-Tokyo areas like Critter Country full of Winnie the Pooh and friends. Another highlight is the World Bazaar with all its whimsical shops, street performances and two mirrored “Main Street” corridors leading into and out of the park.

Classic Rides with a Twist
While you’ll find plenty of classic Disney rides and attractions like Space Mountain, Haunted Mansion, It’s A Small World, Big Thunder Mountain Railroad and more, Tokyo takes these familiar experiences to new heights with superior technology, incredible detailed enhancements, and its own distinct Tokyo Disneyland twists.

One of my favorite examples was the Star Tours ride in Tomorrowland, which is trackless and features incredible visuals that sync up the motion seamlessly with the space flight sequences. I had to experience it multiple times!

You’ll also find exclusive-to-Tokyo rides and shows like Monsters Inc Ride & Go Seek, the Broadway-caliber One Man’s Dream II show celebrating Disney films, Horsedroid Roundup in Toyville Toontown, and the mind-blowing Enchanted Tale of Beauty and the Beast dark ride. Be sure to consult ride wait times and grab a park map to plan your day.

Dining and Snacking
No Disney experience is complete without indulging in plenty of theme park snacks and treats. From the iconic Mickey Mouse premium ice cream bars to the incredible Disney character and animation themed popcorn flavors and buckets, you’ll find some of the most creative and Instagram-worthy snacks here.

Other iconic Tokyo Disneyland treats include the Chandu Tail Bread (an adorable panda-shaped sweet bread loaf) found in Fantasyland, colorful Mickey-shaped churros, cream-filled Mickey Mouse mousse domes, and flavorful kakigori shaved ice desserts.

For full-service sit-down dining, can’t miss restaurants include the Polynesian Terrace in Adventureland serving Tiki cocktails and wild West-inspired dishes at Cowboy Cookhouse Barbecue in Westernland. You’ll want to grab hard-to-get advance reservations for any character dining experiences like the beloved Cape Cod-style restaurant Blue Bayou in New Orleans Square.

Park Entertainment
In true Disney fashion, Tokyo Disneyland features no shortage of incredible live entertainment to round out your visit. From the magnificent daytime parade, Dreaming Up!, to the immersive nighttime spectacular Once Upon a Time fireworks show projected across the castle, these are visual extravaganzas not to miss.

Other must-see shows include the colorful New! Fantasmic! nighttime spectacular fusing live characters and stunts with cutting-edge projection mapping, water effects and pyrotechnics on the Rivers of Fantasy. You can catch some of the resident Disney characters up close grooving in the afternoon dance parties on the World Bazaar main stage too.

Planning Your Strategy
Like most Disney parks, Tokyo Disneyland has plenty of seasonal events, entertainment, snacks and merchandise that rotate regularly throughout the year. I personally loved visiting in the autumn when the park was decked out in gorgeous fall decor and offered special Halloween offerings.

No matter when you plan to visit though, I’d recommend purchasing a 2-day pass if possible in order to fully experience both Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea without feeling rushed. Use a crowd calendar and plan to visit on lower crowd days for shorter wait times. Be sure to take advantage of the free FastPass system, which allows you to reserve ride times for the most popular attractions in advance. Arrive early, stay late, and prepare to be swept up in the exceptional Disney magic!

From its unbeatably spotless park grounds and incredible efficiency to its world-class attractions fusing cutting-edge technology with nostalgic charm, a trip to Tokyo Disneyland is truly a next-level Disney vacation experience. Whether you’re a longtime Disney fan or just looking for a fun-filled family getaway, this should absolutely be on your bucket list when visiting Japan. Just don’t be surprised when you find yourself never wanting to leave thanks to Tokyo Disney’s pure enchantment!

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We had an early start this morning as we expected this to be a long day. We ate the donuts and cheesecake we bought from Dr Donut and Le Tao the day before for breakfast. We checked out of our hotel and set off at around 8am in the morning.

Sandantaki Park

The drive to Farm Tomita in Furano was about 2 hours. We took a slightly longer route going up north towards Asahikawa and exit at Iwashima and drive thru the mountains. The mountain drive was beautiful as the higher altitude here meant that the autumn foliage here was at its peak. The advantage of taking this route was that we could make a photo stop at Sandantaki Park. Sandan taki (waterfall), is viewable from the park which was just off the road in the Ashibetsu area. The park was absolutely beautiful in its peak autumn colours! So glad we came by this way.

Farm Tomita, Furano

We visited Farm Tomita on our last trip to Hokkaido about 10 years ago. It was in May and flowers were beautiful although not in full bloom yet as summer comes late in Hokkaido. I was not sure what to expect of this visit as it is already autumn. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at Farm Tomita to find that the flowers in the farm were still in bloom.

Farm Tomita in October was even more beautiful than what I remembered in May. Another advantage of this Oct visit was that it was less busy, thus we could take photos without loads of people in the background. so glad that we came again!

There were no lavender in the farm at this time of the year (you need to come in July to see lavender), but they were still selling lavender ice-cream (¥300 for a cone and ¥250 for a cup). The kids had to have it and said that it was good. I found the taste strange .

Lunch @ Farm Restaurant Chiyoda, Biei

We headed to Farm Restaurant Chiyoda for an early lunch after our Farm Tomita visit. The restaurant was about 30 mins drive from Farm Tomita and we arrived around 11.30am. We were all hungry given that we had very simple breakfast that morning.

We picked this restaurant because it serves Biei wagyu which is suppose to be very good and we wanted to try. We are a family of Wagyu fans. The restaurant serves a special cut wagyu that has limited servings each day. Another reason for coming early was so we get to have this special cut of wagyu. They don’t take reservations so coming early also meant it was easier to get a table.

The special wagyu cut was excellent. It was so unassuming when it was served. You should have seen how DS’s face lit up in surprise at the first bite of his steak. “Oh my God!”, he exclaimed! The steak was so juicy and tender. Juice just oozes out of the steak (maybe I should say fats! ). It literally melts in your mouth! It cost ¥5,180 with either rice or bread. We chose bread and it was so good too……so very soft. So good with butter! . DD had the wagyu stew with bread (¥1,980). It was very tender too. I tasted her stew and it was the most tender beef stew I have ever had. We also ordered a seasonal salad (¥480) which came with a carrot sauce which I liked too.

DS rated this meal as the best meal of the trip because of the special cut wagyu steak. I agree with him. Difficult to find another wagyu steak better than this at this price. It was not a cheap steak, but was cheap for a wagyu steak of that quality.

There was a Farm next to the restaurant so if you have young kids it should be interesting to visit too. Unfortunately my kids were pass the farm animal age so we gave that a miss.

Shikisai-no-Oka, Biei

Shikisai-no-Oka was a flower garden on a hill carpeted with flowers. This feast for the eye features tulips, lupine, lavender, salvia, sunflowers, dahlia and Japanese anemone. The beauty of this flower garden lies in the vast amount of flowers in neat strips across the hill. From afar, it looked like a colourful carpet. Very impressive. Entry to this flower garden is free but they do suggest a ¥200 donation per person for upkeep of the flowers.

One can choose to walk along the pathways or take a tractor trolley ride (¥500 per person) around the hills. Lazy us chose the tractor trolley ride .

This is a must visit farm when in Furano-Biei region. You can see flower farms in many places, but probably not to the extend in terms size and expanse as Shikisai-no-Oka. DH says that this is his favourite flower farm of the 3 we visited that day.

Kanno Farm, Furano

This was the smallest of the 3 flower farms that we visited that day. It was another of the farms that have blooms all the way to October.

It even had flowers grown into a heart shape. Very sweet.

It is a nice stop if you are along the way like us. But as it is very small, it is not likely to be a destination on its own like Farm Tomita or Shikisai-no-Oka.

Melon Ice Cream @ Popura Farm

We made a detour back to Popura Farm which is nearer Farm Tomita after we left Kanno Farm. We cannot forget the wonderful melon iced cream we had there 10 years ago, and had to go back for it that afternoon.

You have a choice of a quarter or half melon, vanilla or melon ice cream. We decided to give ourselves a treat and ordered half a melon each and all with melon ice cream. It was as good as we remembered. The Yubari melon was so sweet and the melon ice cream so very refreshing. It made a good mid afternoon snack. It cost ¥1500 for half a melon with ice cream and ¥800 for a quarter melon with ice cream.

Blue Pond, Biei

After our ice cream, we headed northwards again towards the Blue Pond. We had intentionally timed the visit of Blue Bond in the later afternoon as we wanted to catch the soft evening light, just before sunset. We were not disappointed. The sight that welcomed us was amazing!

Blue Pond is a man-made pond feature which resulted from works on the Biei River carried out after the 1988 eruption of Mount Tokachi, to protect the town of Biei from volcanic mudflows. The blue colour is thought to result from the presence of aluminum in the water. Sulphur and lime brought down by the nearby waterfall also caused bleaching and whitening of the rocks at the base of the pond, thus accentuating the blue colour of the pond.

Another aspect that add to the beauty of this pond must be the withered tree branches rising from the pond. The once-living Japanese larch and silver birch trees in the area became submerged when the pond was created. In combination with the mysterious blue, the dead trees are now a part of the scenery that is so beautiful but some what sad in some aspects.

Stay @ Mori-no-Ryotei, Biei

Most of the accommodations in Biei are Pensions (western style homestay). We wanted a proper ryokan and it seems the best option was Mori-no-Ryotei, so we went for it. But it was on the pricy side especially since we wanted in-room private onsen. The private onsen rooms in Mori-no-Ryotei can accommodate max 3 pax only. So we booked 2 rooms with private onsen.

Upon arrival we were served cookie and tea at the lobby. The lounge area was cosy and decorated with little wood carved artifacts. In fact we found out later that these wooden knick knacks that can be found all over the ryokan are for sale as well.

Mori-no-Ryotei is probably the best accommodation that you can get in Biei. Many well known Japanese personalities from anime artist to baseball players have stayed here and have left their autograph.

Our was a typical ryokan room with a sleeping area and a sitting area. Simple and minimalist. The only difference was that it has proper mattresses rather than uses futon. That was why it was described as a western style Japanese room. I suppose it just makes it easier for the chamber maids who then don’t have to lay out and keep the futons daily. If there are 3 to the room, the third bed will be a futon. The mini fridge was filled with 2 cans of calpis drinks and 2 grape jelly which was free. The yukatas were in the cupboards as expected too.

Our room came with private outdoor onsen. The bath and dressing area was a mini version of what you will find in large onsen. I couldn’t wait to use it. DD and I used the private onsen only while DH and DS also used the public onsen during our stay. The advantage of a private onsen was that one can go for a quick soak in the morning before breakfast without the hassle of leaving the room! Onsen are very addictive and are a must for us whenever we visit Japan these days.

Dinner that night was served in the dining room. We had a sumptuous 10 course dinner consisting of:

1. Salmon roe, small fish, salmon sushi, sweet rice, seaweed
2. Tofu baked with sea urchin
3. Clear scallop soup
4. Assorted aashimi consisting of tuna, red snapper, flounder
5. Steam pork with taro
6. Snow crab with fried potato in vinegrette
7. Shabu Shabu of Biei wagyu dip in sesame sauce
8. Assorted tempura which came with an unusual item – rice tempura! It was like pop corn.
9. Rice with black soy bean with miso soup and pickles
10. Dessert was pudding

It was a wonderful dinner. Very satisfying!

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Our first stop was the iconic Sapporo TV Tower, one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Dating back to 1957, this soaring 147.2-meter tower offers sweeping panoramic views from the observation decks. As we took the elevator up to the highest deck, we admired Sapporo’s modern skyline and surrounding mountains transitioning into brilliant fall hues in every direction. The beaming autumn sunshine illuminated everything in a warm golden glow.

Next up was exploring the Odori Park area, Sapporo’s centrally located landmark green space. This 1.5km long park area divides the city’s main downtown into north and south sections. During our relaxing stroll down Odori Park’s tree-lined promenades, we instantly fell in love with Sapporo’s crisp natural beauty. Verdant lawns punctuated by vibrant maple trees bursting with red, orange and yellow foliage made for incredibly scenic surroundings. We stopped at the intriguing Sapporo TV Tower Fountain, which combines musical choreography with water jets shooting up choreographed streams mesmerizingly.

After soaking in Odori Park’s serene autumnal atmosphere, we satisfied our growing appetites by sampling some of Sapporo’s most beloved street food snacks. From freshly grilled Hokkaido scallops to savory meat-filled buns and piping hot potato croquettes, the street vendors near Odori Station did not disappoint. A seasonal favorite was the amazingly fresh and sweet local Tsurunoko Yokan – a smooth, dense jellied sweet potato confection. Eating these traditional snacks couldn’t have been more perfect for experiencing Sapporo’s local flavors on this postcard-worthy fall day.

Refueled and energized, our next stop took us just a couple blocks northwest to the Sapporo Beer Garden, home of Japan’s oldest beer producer – Sapporo Breweries. At the expansive red-brick brewery grounds and gardens, we learned all about the origins of Sapporo’s beer making traditions dating back to 1876. We toured historic beer cellars, saw towering brewing equipment up close, and even witnessed workers crafting iconic beer mugs and bottles by hand. Of course, no visit is complete without sampling freshly brewed Sapporo Classic in the garden’s charming beer hall!

After our brewery adventure, we decided to experience one of Sapporo’s most quintessential foodie destinations by visiting the city’s famous Nijo Market (Curb Market). Established in 1903, this long shotengai district contains hundreds of shops selling fresh seafood, produce as well as snacks and restaurants. We weaved through the tightly packed, lively lanes gawking at stalls overflowing with the most succulent cuts of salmon, tuna, scallops, crab and more. The sights, sounds and smells of the bustling market were utterly intoxicating.

For dinner, we treated ourselves to world-famous Sapporo ramen at Sumikyo, a no-frills ramen institution that kept winning us over with its pork-bone tonkotsu broth and thick, chewy noodles. The rich, soulful broth had such incredible depth of flavor and the springy, fresh noodles held up to the last slurp. Authentic ramen like this is something we’ll forever crave after returning home.

As night fell, we ended our incredible first day in Sapporo at the beautifully illuminated Sapporo White Illumination. This nightly lighting display transforms the buildings and trees lining the pedestrian walkways around Sapporo Station into a romantic spectacle of dazzling white lights and fall foliage. Wandering through these peaceful illuminated lanes while sipping hot drinks made the perfect tranquil ending to our autumn adventures in Sapporo.

Tomorrow we leave the city behind to explore more of Hokkaido’s pristine nature as brilliant fall colors continue to unfold. But tonight, we rest our feet while reminiscing about Sapporo’s flawless amalgamation of modern city energy, local cuisine, seasonal beauty and autumn traditions we were able to experience today. Hokkaido is exceeding our autumnal expectations with every encounter!

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1. Takashimaya Department Store

Our hotel is opposite Takashimaya Department Store.  As usual, producing a foreign passport here will entitle you to a Hello Kitty card which is a 5% discount card but there is exclusion with some of the designer stands including Hermes and Bao Bao.

Foreigners can also claim tax refund.  However, pls note that Takashimaya can be quite sticky in this aspect.  The name on your credit card used to pay for your purchase must match exactly that of your passport.  Otherwise you may run the risk of your claims being rejected.  I notice that it is less sticky at some other stores.  Also you do not get the full 8% tax refund here.  Takashimaya charges a 1.1% service fee.  (Note that some department stores do not charge any service charge, eg Keio).   The standard rule is that tax refund needs to be claimed on the same day of purchase and refund is in cash only.  To be eligible for tax refund, you need to spend a minimum of ¥5000 (exc tax).

I went to check out the Bao Bao boutique even though I was not planning to buy anything.  It was mid morning when I went and they still had lots of bags on display.  The craze of some years back when you need to queue up before the store opens to get your much awaited back seems a thing of the past.  But the price difference between the price I have to pay in Japan compared to in Singapore seems to have narrowed.   This could also be the reason why there is less of a rush now.  Otherwise, maybe I was just lucky that day.  Since the 5% Taka Tourist discount does not apply to Bao Bao, it is probably better to buy Bao Bao at the standalone boutique as members get a 5% rebate usable for the next purchase.  It is easy to apply for a members card if like me, you are a regular Issey Miyake shopper.

There is a Me by Issey Miyake counter at Takashimaya, and I bought a blouse and a skirt.  I was able to get a 5% discount with the Taka tourist discount card here.  There is no Pleats Please counter at Takashimaya.  So on this trip I satisfied my Pleats Please by Issey Miyake shopping at their Omotesando shop when we went there for dinner one of the evenings.

Didn’t buy much stuff here except a Rilakuma soft toy for DD, Pokémon Nanoblocks for my kids who are collectors and my Cle de Peau cosmetics.  They have more Pokémon nanoblock choices in Japan and they are cheaper than Singapore.  I checked out Hermes but the price was similar to the Singapore boutique.  So I did not get anything.

On our last day, we did drop by to buy Japanese peaches and Kyoho grapes to bring home.  They packed the fruits in a box for us and added lots of stuffings to prevent bruises.  Our fruits arrived home in great shape! Yay!

2. Keio Department Store

At Keio, there was no across the board foreigner discount card or coupon like in Takashimaya. But Union Pay card members get a 5% discount coupon in store and some dining coupons.  We used the dining coupon for free coffee and beer when we lunched at Saboten.  On this trip, we found that there were lots of places that were offering discount only for Union Pay card members.  Such is the power of the Chinese dollar.  As I travel regularly to China, I have a Union Pay card too and so I also benefited.  My friend was lamenting her misfortune for not having a Union Pay card.

There is also difference in tax refunds at different department stores.   Unlike Takashimaya which charges a 1.1% service charge and so you do not get the full 8% refund, Keio does not charge any service charge.  So you get your full 8% back at Keio.  This can be significant for big item purchases.   I noticed significantly more tourists here especially those who hail for China, compared to at Takashimaya.  With the 5% Union Pay discount coupon, it is overall cheaper to shop at Keio than at Takashimaya.   If you do not have a Union Pay card, then buying at Takashimaya will be cheaper even with the 1.1% service charge if you use the tourist discount card.

As mentioned in my earlier posts, I’m not one who like to browse around shops and hope to find things to buy.  I normally have an objective and target before I visit particular places. If I wonder aimlessly I normally end up buying nothing.  One of my favourite snacks from Japan is Goiter de Roi from Gateau Rusk.  Gateau Rusk only has counters at selected department stores in Tokyo. One of which is Keio. So this is the main reason why I went to Keio.

Gouter de Roi is made from French baguette by a confectionery in Gumma prefecture. The crunchy sugar-coated pieces of toasted bread is quite a simple snack and is nothing new.   But it is very popular among Japanese and is frequently used as gifts during festive seasons. There is always a queue (mainly locals and not foreigners) at its counters, and on this occasion it was no exception.   Having been introduced to it by my Japanese staff, I now love it too!  It goes very well with coffee.  They happen to have a festive Halloween packaging at the time I went and so I bought 6 packs! This festive packaging is cheaper than its standard metal box package.

I bought some “cigar” cookes from Yoku Moku too.  Yoku Moku is available at most departments but since I was at Keio, I just bought mine here.

Since there was time, I browsed the department store and for once came across a white gold Akoya pearl necklace that I liked from Tasaki, a well known jeweler in Japan who also has its own pearl research facilities.  The necklace also comes with a certificate of authenticity.  I had a 5% discount here for my necklace using my Union Pay discount coupon.  I almost did not get to complete the purchase as Keio seems to only accept credit cards using the magnetic strip while my cards normally operate on the smart chip only when overseas for security purposes. In the end, only my Union Pay card worked.  This is the first time it has happened to me when shopping in Japan.  I was able to claim the full 8% tax free refund here.

3. Muji 

There is a Muji Store in Shinjuku too.  I like the clean cut look of Muji but they are so expensive in Singapore.  I could not find the pajamas that I like here as they were changing seasons and those on sale were for more for late autumn/winter and not suitable for Singapore.  But I did buy bedsheets for my boys.  They were about 30% cheaper than Singapore and since we had lots of luggage space and we decided to get them.

I also bought the white chocolate coated strawberry snacks for DD.  They are her favourite but as not also available in the store in Singapore.  Before I could take photos of them, DD finished the 6 packs that I bought. ?

We could get tax refund here.

4. Uniqlo

The Uniqlo store at Shinjuku is liked to the BIC store.  Since DH wanted to check out the new Nikon D850 camera, we went to BIC and thus Uniqlo too.  I bought some ladies legging ankle jeans for DD as they are on sale and were really cheap at JPY950 per piece.  We could get tax refund too.

There were lots of winter wear options but since we did not need any, I did not check them out seriously.

5. BIC

BIC is where we normally go to to get our local SIM card previously.  But nowadays with Singtel’s roaming data plan of SGD20 for 1GB data for 30 days, we no longer bother to get the local SIM.

But we still went to BIC because DH was interested in the new Nikon D850 camera what was only launched in recently.  The price in Japan is some SGD500 cheaper than Singapore.  But unfortunately it is sold out at BIC.  We subsequently checked out a few other camera shops including Yodobashi Camera, and all were out of stock. ?

But we did get some Nintendo Switch accessories for the kids.  The carrying case here is JPY2,000 (SGD24) compared to Singapore’s SGD42.  The extra controller cost JPY6,630 (SGD80) vs about SGD100 in Singapore.  We also had tax refund here.

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From famed heritage sites like Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine to the electronic mecca of Akihabara in Tokyo, this accessible adventure perfectly captured Japan’s one-of-a-kind blend of tranquil ancient beauty and vibrant futuristic innovation, all while keeping warm indoors! Join me as I recap an unforgettable expedition across central Japan to the sprawling capital city during one of its most magical seasons.

Stopping at Historic & Scenic Spots Along the Way

My wintry trip commenced in Osaka where I marveled at historic Osaka Castle dressed in glittering white snow before catching a local train bound for Kyoto. This ancient city overflowing with temples and shrines was even more breathtaking dusted in delicate flakes. I strolled along quiet paths surrounded by vermilion-colored torii gateways in Fushimi Inari Shrine, the evening light casting an ethereal glow.

After warming my numb fingers over green matcha tea in a tiny cafe along the Kamogawa River lined with weeping willows, I departed Kyoto on an evening bullet train to Matsumoto in the Japan Alps. Emerging from Matsumoto Station before sunrise the next morning, the regal bright white facade of Matsumoto Castle set against the navy wintry sky took my breath away. Later that day when I journeyed deeper into the mountains, I was awestruck by snow-capped jagged peaks stretching as far as the eye could see while riding through the Norikura Highlands on a local bus.

Cityscapes Blanketed in White – Tokyo & Beyond

Catching the limited express Super Azusa service, I was whisked back through the countryside to Tokyo in just over 3 hours. Stepping off at Tokyo Station, I emerged from the basement into a chilly winter night with the glimmering red Tokyo Tower visible in the distance. I made my way to my cozy hotel in Asakusa, eager to explore this district oozing with traditional charm and history in the morning.

As fat snowflakes tumbled from the steel gray skies, I strolled past ancient temples like the 7th-century Sensoji Temple with little shops and restaurants beckoning from narrow alleys along the way. I stopped into small galleries tucked away on side streets and sampled freshly made wagashi, ornate Japanese confections sculpted to look like seasonal flowers and scenery.

No trip to Tokyo is complete without a pilgrimage to the famous Shibuya Crossing, and it certainly didn’t disappoint on a brisk Saturday just before New Year’s Eve. Joining the orchestrated chaos of pedestrians crisscrossing what is often cited as the world’s busiest intersection, I gazed up in awe at giant video screens on dizzyingly tall buildings all competing for attention. That evening, I reveled in the infectious energy of Shinjuku’s bustling izakaya pubs where I toasted to new adventures and unforgettable winter memories over piping hot sake with new friends.

Before this magical journey came to an end, I dedicated an entire day to wandering the fascinating subcultures of Tokyo by rail, from the anime wonderland of Akihabara to cat cafe-lined alleys in Asakusa. I’ll never forget watching the sun set over the city skyline from the Tokyo Skytree on my last evening, the sprawling metropolis sprinkled with the first gentle snowfall of the year as trains connecting neighborhoods zoomed below.

Key Takeaways from Central Japan & Tokyo by Train & Bus

Transport – Seamless rail and bus networks make traversing central Honshu and Tokyo surprisingly simple, especially with the Japan Rail Pass. From the shinkansen bullet train to local lines, rely on public transportation to maximize time and experiences.

Clothing – Dress in warm layers with waterproof shoes and bring a lightweight down coat. Temperatures hover around freezing with wind, snow or rain likely during winter. Masks are recommended too as the Japanese tend to mask up when ill.

Accommodation – For urban stays, central hotels near train stations provide convenience while ryokans, traditional inns, in countryside locations offer cultural immersion. Capsule hotels are budget-friendly options in cities.

Food – Indulge in winter season specialties like nabe hot pots, ramen, and decadent wagashi sweets. Convenience stores carry budget-friendly ready-to-eat meals, snacks, and hot drinks for on-the-go needs.

Packing – In addition to cold weather apparel, bring durable shoes for walking, portable chargers, credit/debit cards usable abroad, and copies of passport/travel documents. Travel light between destinations via train and bus with a carry-on size bag.

Conclusion

Japan dazzles year-round but I’m utterly smitten by its understated wintry beauty. Crisp skies juxtapose exquisitely with rich culture and heritage, from sacred ancient sites to the excitement of Tokyo’s city streets. Seamless public transit enables adventure-packed days that end under cozy kotatsu tables in traditional inns. I can’t wait to return to central Japan and Tokyo soon to explore more wondrous travel destinations across its islands – by bullet train and local bus, of course! I hope you enjoyed this Winter 2014 Central Japan & Tokyo by Trains & Buses, Day post.

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Nagoya Station is a major transportation center, serving bullet train (shinkansen) lines, regular JR trains, Meitetsu trains, Kintetsu trains, and a subway station. Following lunch in the form of ekiben bento trays, we boarded the JR Chuo Main Line’s Shinano limited express. During this picturesque 2.5-hour journey, we traversed the majestic Kiso Valley and descended into the Japanese Alps.

As soon as we arrived at Kiso-Fukushima, a hot spring village in Nagano Prefecture, it had just begun to snow. We reached our traditional ryokan inn following a brief taxi ride. After completing the check-in process, we donned yukata garments and unwinded in the onsen springs, which were brimming with minerals, prior to indulging in a kaiseki dinner featuring regional specialties.

Day 2 Hiking the Nakasendo Trail

After indulging in a sumptuous breakfast prepared in the traditional Japanese manner at our ryokan, we mounted a portion of the renowned Nakasendo route for a stroll. During the Edo period, a trade route existed between Kyoto and Edo (present-day Tokyo) that traversed the Alps. A popular activity in the Kiso Valley is traversing the hills along the original stone pathways that traverse the hills, which are in close proximity to the remarkably preserved villages of Tsumago and Magome.

Following a twenty-minute journey from Kiso-Fukushima to Nakatsugawa Station via the JR Chuo Main Line, we boarded a local bus and arrived in the village of Magome after thirty minutes of meandering bus travel. After conducting an investigation of the historic wooden edifices that have been converted into shops and inns in Magome, we proceeded to Tsumago village via a 5-mile segment of the Nakasendo trail.

Amidst the chirping of birds and the sole sound of our own footfall the woodland stroll was serene. Decades-old stone inscriptions delineated the pathway. Three hours later, we descended into Tsumago, pausing en route to admire shrines and breathtaking vistas. Featuring its pristine thatched-roof structures and conspicuously absent electricity lines, this picturesque village is even more fortified against intrusion than Magome.

After purchasing steaming green tea and some snacks at a small shop we boarded another bus and returned to Nagiso Station via the JR Chuo Main Line in fifteen minutes. From Kiso-Fukushima where we collected our belongings we took a limited express to Matsumoto a castle town located beneath the Japan Alps.

From Matsumoto to Karuizawa on Day 3

The magnificent old samurai stronghold referred to as “Crow Castle” is the source of Matsumoto’s notoriety. We spent the morning observing Matsumoto Castle, which was situated amidst snow-capped mountains, with its striking crimson bridge and imposing black walls serving as our focal points. The castle’s moon-viewing chamber provides sweeping vistas.

Lunch was enjoyed at Matsumoto’s Nawate-dori, a riverfront thoroughfare flanked by restaurants and shops that were once historically significant structures. Sanzokuyaki, which consists of chicken marinade and skewered barbecue, is the regional specialty. We visited vendors selling handicrafts and mementos prior to assembling our possessions and boarding the Shinano, a limited express train, at Matsumoto Station.

We traveled by train for an additional scenic half-hour to reach the upscale mountain resort of Karuizawa. We rented bicycles for the purpose of exploration after settling into our lodging in close proximity to the station. The tree-lined alleyways of Karuizawa are lined with boutiques, cafés, and galleries. While perusing the shops, we took pleasure in the crisp mountain air.

That evening, we dined at a neighborhood restaurant serving shinshu soba, which are buckwheat noodles served chilled with dipping sauce or heated in broth with tempura. Following that, we indulged in a beverage in the hotel lobby and a hot spring bath to conclude the evening.

Kusatsu Onsen and Karuizawa Outlet Mall on Day 4

We commenced the day by boarding a bus from Karuizawa Station to Kusatsu Onsen, a renowned hot spring resort in Japan. After a 30-minute mountainous journey, one arrives at the medieval settlement encircling mineral-rich volcanic springs. The primary hot spring area, Yubatake, contains a substantial timber structure that chills the spring water for use in bathing.

The streets of Kusatsu, which are lined with traditional inns, bathhouses, and souvenir stores, were ours to explore in the morning. We traveled to the Netsunoyu Bathhouse in order to fully experience the therapeutic waters. We then enjoyed lunch consisting of regional specialties such as sansai mountain vegetable tempura and onsen tamago eggs, which are cooked gently in springs.

We proceeded to Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza, one of the largest outlet complexes in Japan with over 200 stores, upon our afternoon bus return to the city. We strolled through the establishments stocked with discounted products by brands including Adidas, Burberry, Beams, and Shiseido.

We dined at a neighborhood izakaya tavern in the heart of Karuizawa. We conversed while enjoying sake and yakitori skewers regarding the subsequent phase of our journey: the bullet train to Tokyo the following morning.

Tokyo by Bullet Train on Day 5

Prior to packing and departing, we indulged in one final plunge in the hotel’s onsen. We enjoyed ekiben bento dishes on the train and yaki-manju buns stuffed with red bean paste at Karuizawa Station for dessert.

Using our Japan Rail Passes, we rode the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train on the Nagano Shinkansen line. Accelerating to a maximum of 160 mph, the pristine white train swiftly propelled us across the picturesque landscape and out of the mountains.

We embarked on a 1.5-hour journey, transferred to the Joetsu Shinkansen at Takasaki, and spent an additional hour in Tokyo. We made our way through the throngs of passengers at Tokyo Station to the Marunouchi exit, where we signaled for a taxi to our Shinjuku hotel.

Shinjuku, the principal commercial and entertainment district of Tokyo, is adorned with colossal edifices and brilliant neon signs, upon which we fixed our gaze that evening. Warm sake and sashimi were passed to us via conveyor belt. We were extremely satisfied with our wintertime excursion throughout the heart of Japan, and we were looking forward to exploring Tokyo’s shops, monuments, and cuisine for the next few days. I hope you like this Winter 2014 Central Japan & Tokyo by Trains & Buses, Day …

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With so many culinary delights packed into Shinjuku’s relatively small footprint, it can be overwhelming for visitors to decide where to eat. So let’s start our edible exploration with the most important meal of the day: breakfast and morning fuel-ups like coffee and pastries.

Rise and Shine in Shinjuku

There’s no better way to kick off a day of adventuring around Shinjuku than with a hearty, restorative Japanese breakfast. Despite the area’s frenetic pace, you’ll find plenty of serene traditional eateries and charming cafes tucked away serving up satisfying morning meals.

One such sanctuary is Kagetsuan, a quaint shop dating back over 100 years. Step inside this converted wooden machiya townhouse, and you’re transported to an oasis of calm with sweet-voiced servers gliding between tatami mat rooms. Their iconic Tokyo-style breakfast set includes impeccably grilled salted salmon, perfectly cooked rice, a sampling of seasonal tsukemono pickles, miso soup, and complementary sides that change daily.

Another classic choice for a traditional Japanese morning feast is Shinjuku Nakamuraza. This bustling basement operation has been dishing up soul-warming fare since 1966. It’s culinary time travel, with low wood-beamed ceilings and servers manning rowboat-styled counters to ferry plates of pristine sashimi, grilled fish, pickles, rice and savory eggs to hungry patrons. It’s boisterous, convivial and the perfect intro to Japanese breakfast culture.

For a more modern morning meal with Western flair, Shinjuku has incredible bakeries, patisseries and trendy cafés to satisfy any craving. Fu-ku Baguette Bakery, an offshoot of the Michelin-starred restaurant, crafts crusty baguettes and decadent pastries that will have you wondering if you teleported to a Parisian café.

Rambling Dessert Bars

If you’re not interested in a full sit-down breakfast, Shinjuku’s dessert scene has plenty to keep your energy levels topped up. Sweet fiends won’t want to miss Shinjuku Mylord, a food mecca dedicated to all things sugary and decadent.

The basement of this seven-floor cake and pastry paradise is where you’ll find many of Japan’s most legendary dessert temples like Dominique Ansel Bakery, Lady M, and Harbs. Pop into Ansel’s Tokyo outpost for gravity-defying croissants in flavors like shoku pan (Japanese milk bread) or matcha. Then swing by Lady M for a thick slice of their signature mille crêpe cake – delicate handmade crepes layered with ethereally light pastry cream. Complete the indulgent trifecta with a German-style baumkuchen cake swirled with chocolate at Harbs.

If you have a sweet tooth but are looking for more unique treats, Shinjuku offers a dizzying array of edible novelties. Go full kawaii with adorable animal-shaped donuts or cream puffs at Floresta Nature Donuts, where the baked goods are technically edible art. Or pick up premium-grade matcha, dorayaki pancake sandwiches and seasonal Japanese sweets at Kinseiken Yoko-cho, a picturesque confectionery shop straight out of a storybook.

Exceptional Coffee Craft

For those in need of a morning caffeine buzz, Shinjuku delivers. The craft coffee scene in Tokyo is legendary, and this dynamic neighborhood has your java fix on lockdown.

Tucked down a quiet alley, Streamer Coffee is a world-class micro-roaster and tasting room serving impeccable cups of single origin coffee. Pull up a stool at their sleek wooden tasting bar and watch the masters meticulously weigh, grind, and hand-brew each pour over in temperature-controlled vessels with reverential precision. You’ll taste nuances you never knew existed in your daily cup.

The sprawling NEWoMan complex is also home to an impressive concentration of exceptional coffee shops like Unlimited Coffee Bar, Roof Caffè Tokyo, and Valley Coffee Roasters. Cult classics like these regularly make global lists of Tokyo’s best cafes, renowned for sourcing and roasting premium direct-trade beans.

If you prefer your java with ambiance and people watching, look no further than Omotesando Koffee. This Omotesando Hills icon occupies a cavernous domed room with soaring ceilings and dual spiral staircases that are a prime roost for sipping single origin pour overs while gazing out over the Shibuya skyline.

Day-Stopping Shinjuku Sweets

After maxing out on coffees and pastries during your morning adventures, the sugar rush may start to wear off by mid-afternoon. That’s when you’ll want to beeline for some of Shinjuku’s most over-the-top sweet shops for a decadent pick-me-up.

Japanese-French patisserie Sadaharu Aoki is renowned for precision in both flavor and visuals. You’ll find seasonal fruit tarts and entremets (layered mousse cakes) as beautiful as fine art behind the dazzling displays here, each creation demonstrating Aoki’s mastery of European technique and reverence for high-quality Japanese ingredients like Kyoho grapes and Shizuoka matcha. Don’t leave without trying their legendary “bites” – miniature dome-shaped cakes like macha, sesame noir or fromage blanc.

Another local legend specializing in mashups of French and Japanese pastry traditions: Année Patisserie. This modern-day confectionary conjures otherworldly hybrid sweets like Basque tart muffins with cherries, Funabara choux pastries sandwiched with matcha cream, and featherweight French baked cheesecakes infused with flavors like sweet potato or oolong tea. Take a number and get ready to be dazzled by whatever dreamworlds in pastry form the patissiers have whipped up that day.

If amid all the decadence you find yourself craving something lighter, make your way to artisanal shaved ice haven Tsujiri. Opened in 1860, it’s one of Japan’s oldest purveyors of iced treats like kakigōri (shaved ice drenched in syrups and toppings). But the highlight is their exquisite matcha soft serve parfaits layered with matcha azuki (red bean), matcha mochi, matcha powder, and sometimes even matcha espresso jelly if you need an extra jolt.

Whether enjoying an elegant tea house breakfast or sampling rare coffee varietals and cutting-edge pastry artistry, Shinjuku has your morning meal and midday sugar fix covered. From old-world charm to avant-garde creativity, this dazzling district offers endless appetite-whetting ways to start your day in Tokyo. I hope this Eating in Shinjuku (I) – Breakfast, Coffee & Dessert post helps you.

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What is Omakase?

The word “omakase” literally means “I’ll leave it up to you” in Japanese. In the context of dining, it refers to a multi-course meal where the chef selects and prepares each dish using the finest seasonal ingredients available that day.

Rather than ordering from a menu, you place your trust in the chef’s artistry, skill and creativity to curate an exceptional dining journey specifically for you. It’s an intimate dance between diner and chef, with each bite revealing new flavors, textures and artistic plating.

The Chikuyotei Experience
As soon as you enter Chikuyotei’s elegant dining room inspired by traditional Kyoto design aesthetics, you’re enveloped in a serene, refined ambiance that sets the stage for the culinary performance to come.

The beautifully-appointed space features warm wood tones, shoji screens, a raked zen garden and even a traditional tea house area. You almost feel as if you’ve been transported to an upscale ryokan inn in the ancient Japanese capital.

The culinary artists at Chikuyotei are led by Master Chef Yamashita Masami, who hails from Osaka and has over 40 years of experience mastering different Japanese cuisines like sushi, tempura, kaiseki and teppanyaki. Under his vision and meticulous guidance, the chefs create inspired omakase menus using premium air-flown ingredients from Japan.

A Seasonal Tasting Menu

The omakase experience at Chikuyotei begins with an appetizer course featuring four beautifully-plated delicacies that awaken the palate. On my recent visit, it included perfectly-seared kue (nugget longline fish), tender chilled octopus, briny clam and sweet amaebi shrimp from Hokkaido.

Next up is a seasonal steaming course called mushimono. I was treated to delicate dishes like a light chawanmushi egg custard and fork-tender bamboo shoot and prawn dumplings that had been intricately wrapped in sheer bamboo leaves.

Then comes the sushi and sashimi courses, where Chikuyotei truly shines. The sashimi plate is an artful composition of sliced amaebi, otoro tuna belly, flounder, yellowtail, sweet shrimp, and other rotating seasonal catches that are so fresh they practically melt in your mouth.

The sushi is individually hand-crafted by two sushi masters during your meal. It’s a fascinating performance to watch as they deftly mold perfect ovals of warm vinegared rice and precisely drape each buttery-soft slice of fish, be it amaebi, chu-toro, uni, anago or tamago onto the shari. Their deft handiwork and decades of rigorous training are evident in every impeccable bite.

Between sushi bites, you’ll savor interspersed seasonally-inspired dishes that showcase classic Japanese cooking techniques like tempura, yakimono grilled dishes, agemono fried dishes, steamed sakamushi courses and more.

I was lucky enough to experience delights like perfectly crisp vegetable and seafood tempuras, fork-tender A4 wagyu beef rolled with crisp shiso leaf, and foie gras-stuffed quail in a rich demiglaze. Each bite was a revelation of flavors, textures and artistic presentations.

After the savory finale, you’ll be treated to a refreshing seasonal dessert course like cherry ice cream and mochi rice cakes or yuzu sorbet that cleanses the palate before a final cup of matcha green tea.

Throughout the three-hour feast, knowledgeable servers will explain the intricacies of each dish while effortlessly attending to your needs with warmth and grace.

An Omakase Feast for the Senses

Beyond the technical mastery on display, what makes the omakase at Chikuyotei so magical is how it engages all five senses:

Sight – You’ll be awed by the visually stunning presentations of each dish that highlight seasonal ingredients through delicate terrines, meticulous vegetable carvings, and ornate garnishes like shiso flowers and yuzu peel.

Smell – Aromatic notes of sizzling yakitori chicken, smoky binchotan charcoal, fresh wasabi, and rich dashi broth will whet your appetite before each bite.

Sound – From the sizzle of tempura hitting the hot oil to the gentle pit-pat of sushi being shaped, you’ll be serenaded by the soundtrack of your meal being prepared.

Taste – This is where the chefs’ skills truly shine, masterfully balancing flavors from sweet and sour to savory, bitter and umami across a kaleidoscope of seafood, meat, vegetables and more.

Touch – Contrasting textures from velvety fresh tofu skin to crispy tempura batter and tender braised beef will excite your tactile senses.

While certainly a splurge, the omakase lunch at Chikuyotei offers incredible value for a truly memorable fine dining experience. With seasonally changing ingredients and endless creative possibilities, you can return time and again to explore new culinary shores.

Insider Tips

To fully savor your Chikuyotei experience, a few pro tips:

• Make reservations well in advance as it’s extremely popular
• Request counter seating to watch the sushi masters at work
• Come very hungry – you’ll want to fully indulge in every bite!
• Order premium sakes or Japanese whisky to complement your meal
• Take your time and let the chefs set the leisurely omakase pace

Whether celebrating a special occasion or just craving a unforgettable culinary indulgence, treat yourself to the transcendent omakase lunch at Chikuyotei. Let the talented chefs guide you on an edible tour of Japan’s diverse regional cuisines and savor the art of Japanese dining at its finest. I hope this Omakase Lunch @ Chikuyotei, Intercontinental Hotel post helps you.

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We woke up early and went to for a walk before the first ferry brings the day trippers.  The morning was peaceful and the walk was pleasant.  This morning the tide was higher and the shrine and torii gate both look like they are floating on the water.

Morning in Miyajima

Then it was back to our ryokan for breakfast.  Breakfast was served in the dining room.  It was standard Japanese breakfast, ie rice served with fish, pickles and a few other dishes.  I must say the breakfast here is nothing to shout about.  Very basic.  Most other ryokans we stayed at previously served much better breakfast.

Simple Japanese breakfast @ Kinsuikan

After breakfast, we ventured out again.  We wanted to take the ropeway to get to the top of Mt Mizen.  DH wanted to take from photos from the top of Mt Mizen.  Along the way we noticed the winds were very strong and we actually witnessed a Hanafubuki (Flower Snow Storm).  It was like falling snow flakes!  So beautiful!

Hanafubuk (Flower Snow Storm)

Unfortunately, when we got to the ropeway, we found out it was closed because of strong winds and impending rain.  So we walked around and found ourselves at Daigan-ji.  This temple was originally responsible for the repair of the Itsukushima Shrine and the Torii gate prior to the Shinto-Buddhism separation during the Meiji period.

Daigan-ji Temple, Miyajima

The sky was threatening to rain and since we couldn’t get to Mt Mizen, we decided to leave the island and get back to Hiroshima earlier than planned.  After check out, the ryokan dropped us off at the ferry terminal.

We took the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi and caught the local train back to Hiroshima.  Went to reserve our tickets on the Shinkansen to Fukuyama before we went in search for lunch.  We had originally wanted to spend more time in Miyajima and to just get a bento lunch to eat on the train.  Since we left Miyajima earlier, we went in search for the Okonomiyaki restaurant that we spotted the day before.  We wanted to try the Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki which comes with noodles.  It is different from the Osaka style which we are used to.  Oh, and I had to have those oysters croquettes!!

Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki

After lunch we took the Shinkansen to Fukuyama.  It took about 40 mins.  From the Shinkansen platform at Fukuyama, you get a great view of Fukuyama castle.

Fukuyama Castle – View from the JR Shinkansen platform

We had arranged for a pickup at the train station by the ryokan at 1.40pm.  As we had some time before our shuttle pick up, we went to UCC for some dessert and coffee. I love Japanese dessert!

Dessert @ UCC at Fukuyama Station

We were not exactly sure where to wait or what type of vehicle we were waiting for. We had expected to see a vehicle with the ryokan name or for someone to hold a card with our name or ryokan name. But it is actually a vehicle which is taking picking up pax for many hotels in Fukuyama. We actually missed it and called the hotel and the bus turned back to pick us.

Upon arrival at our ryokan,  Keishokan Sazanamitei, we were served a welcome tea and snack before being shown to our room.

Welcome tea & snack @ Keishokan Sazanamitei

The ryokan is located by the sea. Unfortunately, it was raining the day we arrived and so the sky was grey. I’m sure it would have been beautiful if the sky was blue.  Our room was facing the sea and had an attached outdoor onsen. We had paid more for this luxury and had no regrets. It was lovely

Our room with private outdoor onsen @ Keishokan Sazanamitei

We took the 1.40 pm shuttle, it took almost an hour to get to the hotel after they dropped off of various pax at different hotels. On hindsight, we should have taken a taxi and not be restricted by the shuttle time, and can arrive earlier. By the time we checked in and go out for a walk, it was after 3pm and even though it was a weekday (Friday), the shops close around 4pm. We were lucky that we got to the Ota residence which was nearby before it closed. My suggestion is to take a taxi and arrive early if you want to walk around the old town. We only had time to browse a few shops before all the shutters went down.

Tomonoura Old Town was the site for one of the scenes in Hugh Jackman’s Wolverine.  It’s old wooden architecture buildings preserves the look of an old Japanese town.  It was very rustic and pretty.  We walked to the waterfront but the sky was so grey and we could not get good photos.  We decided to come back early the next morning to try our luck.

Tomonoura Old Town

Tomonoura is well known for its herbal wine, Honmeishu.  The Ota Residence belonged to a family that started brewing this wine with the 17th century.  Visitors can view the various tatami rooms, tea rooms and Honmeishu storehouses.

Kaiseki dinner @ Keishokan Sazanamitei

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