Our walking tour began at the towering Victorian Gothic gateway of Trinity College. Passing through the entrance flanked by statues of famous alumni like Sir Isaac Newton and Alfred Lord Tennyson, it became clear Cambridge takes pride in its scholarly lineage. Our guide started us down the intricately carved wooden door of the college’s hall lined with portraits of royal founders and esteemed masters gazing down through the centuries. Underscoring Trinity’s prestige, we had walked in the footsteps of more Nobel-winning alumni than any other Oxbridge college.

Emerging from the hall, we entered the interior grassy courts with Trinity’s private postcard-perfect chapel soaring heavenward. This architectural showpiece took nearly a century to build from the plans of King Henry VIII in 1546 to when Sir Christopher Wren finished adorning the capella in the early 1700s. Gazing up at the stone tracery and long lancet windows, I was amazed how this relatively small space left visitors craning their necks with such lofty vertical grandeur.

Leaving the perfectly manicured lawn of Trinity College, we headed towards the backs of the colleges lining the River Cam. As we strolled along the waterway, the iconic King’s College Chapel came into full view. Its wedding cake layers of pinnacles and pointed windows reach upwards from the masters’ lush garden plots below. No matter how long the queue of visitors and students wrapped around its exterior waiting turn after turn to glimpse inside.

Finally passing through the antechapel into the cathedral-like interior, we were all immediately struck speechless by its vaulted expanse. Stone pillars on either side seem to stretch to infinity towards delicate ribs lining the ceiling high overhead. Entirely built from the 1500s to 1536s under King Henry VI, its elaborately carved choir stalls have hosted choristers lifting their voices to the heavens for daily Evensong ever since. Even as an avowed agnostic, I gained immense respect for the generations who designed, built and preserved this sanctuary celebrating both human ingenuity and divine glory.

Leaving the rare beauty of King’s College Chapel, we continued along the backs passing punters steering Cambridge’s iconic flat-bottom boats down the Cam. Students and tourists alike relaxed with Pimm’s-laden picnics along the riverbank willows backed by ivy-clad towers and turrets unfurling like honeycomb. It became easy to see why Cambridge charms visitors and cultivated such ethereal architecture and a rich scholarly life for century upon century.

We left the banks of the Cam to approach Cambridge’s other famous college and round church sharing its name – Corpus Christi. Established in 1352, its Old Court exemplifies some of Cambridge’s earliest brick college buildings enclosing a peaceful green lawn. Our next viewpoint afforded the iconic perspective across the expanse of manicured grass through an archway to the college chapel itself.

Seeing the round church interior itself didn’t disappoint. The clean columns drawing visitors’ eyes up to Central Lantern ceiling left me pleasantly surprised by its graceful simplicity and symmetry. Belying the college’s small stature, influential alumni of Corpus Christi College include Christopher Marlowe, Francois Isaac de Rivaz the steam engine pioneer and pioneering women scholars like Cornelia Sorabji championing legal aide and education reform in 20th century India.

Crossing medieval Magdalene Bridge, we approached the college boasting Cambridge’s only surviving turreted gatehouse along the Cam’s banks. Legend says its spires were intentionally made different heights to show academics shouldn’t have heads in the clouds so much they lose sight of earthly duties. Inside the First Court, statues of noble patrons and founding members stared down as we imagined generations of scholars passing through these arched wooden doorways.

The day passed all too quickly getting brief glimpses into the historic Cambridge colleges that cultivated scientific innovation alongside classical poetry and philosophy for over 800 years since 1209. Heading to our celebratory final dinner together, we finally swapped stories from everyone’s favorite colleges and sights from both our England and Scotland adventures. Over looking back on nearly 20 days of castles, churches, villages and landscapes – we all left with fuller appreciation for the centuries that built Great Britain’s rich culture and identity we were privileged to experience. I hope you like reading this 2016 England & Scotland by Road & Rail – Day 16 (Cambridge) post.

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As I got closer to the towering stones, I was astounded by their size and complexity. The outer circle, made of 30 upright sarsen stones topped with 30 lintels, forms a continuous ring enclosing the inner horseshoe and trilithons (two uprights with one lintel) in the center. Gazing up at the impossibly heavy sarsen stones, I wondered how on earth Neolithic people without modern machinery managed to haul them here and erect them. Scholars still debate exactly how they accomplished this incredible feat of engineering.

As we slowly circled the stones, their geometric alignment along the northeast-southwest axis and the sunrise became clear. I could easily imagine ancient peoples gathering here to observe solar and lunar cycles and perform rituals and feasts timed to those events. Even as hordes of visitors now walk where ancient priests and their congregations once stood, an air of mystery and deep history surrounds Stonehenge.

After exploring every sarsen stone and trilithon, we strolled along the avenue leading northeast from the stone circle. Archaeologists have discovered numerous burial mounds lining the 3-kilometer avenue, supporting theories that Stonehenge also served as an elaborate cemetery complex. We walked the avenue until we eventually re-boarded our coach to continue our stone circle tour at nearby Avebury.

Pulling into Avebury, the first remarkable feature we spotted was Silbury Hill – a 40-meter tall prehistoric mound made from hundreds of thousands of chalk bricks. Just as mysteriously as Stonehenge, no one knows exactly why Neolithic builders devoted such efforts to making Silbury Hill. Archaeologists have found some human remains there, leading many to believe it was used for burial and ceremonial activities. We admired the perfectly cone-shaped hill from afar, then headed into Avebury village for lunch at a cozy country pub before touring Avebury Henge itself.

After a hearty meal, we walked through Avebury to approach its massive henge and stone circles. As we passed through the outer embankments and ditches, the stones suddenly emerged in front of us. What immediately struck me was how Avebury’s stone circles are set within the village itself. The Red Lion pub, the church, and cottages are all built inside the Neolithic earthworks!

We entered the southern inner circle, which contains the largest sarsen stones at Avebury. Walking up to the towering stones, we spotted faded carvings of daggers and symbols on some of them. Images were clearly very important to Avebury’s Neolithic forebears. This sanctified landscape still draws modern-day Druids and pagans who see it as a gateway between worlds.

I craned my neck up to admire the largest stone in the southern circle nicknamed “The Barber Stone.” At over 6 meters tall and weighing nearly 100 tons, its scale rivals the sarsens at Stonehenge. Geologists have traced some of Avebury’s sarsens to just 15 miles north on the Marlborough Downs, indicating they required less distance to transport than Stonehenge’s. Still, organizing their erection was no simple task.

We slowly wandered through Avebury’s northern and southern inner stone circles, past burial mounds and into the huge northern outer circle. Along the way, we paused to touch the stones themselves, marveling at the individual personalities of each towering form. Some stones are slender and pillar-shaped while others look squatter. Studying them, I gained profound respect for the Neolithic builders who selected and designed this awe-inspiring site.

Our final stop of the day was Lacock village and abbey. Pulling into the central square, it immediately became clear why Lacock is often a filming location for movies and historical TV dramas. Its half-timber and stone cottages lining the stream look perfectly preserved from centuries past. As we wandered along the narrow lanes crossed by three old stone bridges, I was delighted by the chocolate-box quaintness of village life in Lacock.

Saved from dissolution by William Sharington in the 16th century, Lacock Abbey now stands as a central feature in the town. We made our way to the cloisters and grounds of the abbey, taking photos beside the arched Gothic windows that line the colonnades. Leaving the abbey through the vineyards, we passed a stone barn used to distill Lacock Abbey’s famous botanical and elderflower handcrafted spirits.

After checking into our inn housed in a converted 16th century coaching inn, we enjoyed a farewell pub dinner with our travel companions. I will long remember this day immersed in deep ancient history spanning Stonehenge stones to Avebury circle and the medieval charm of Lacock village. Over piping hot fish and chips, we reminisced on the entire tour from start to finish – and seeing British history come to life before our eyes. I hope you like reading Day 3 (Stonehenge, Avebury & Lacock).

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Our travel goals included soaking in London’s quintessential urban vibe, admiring charming villages from period films, touring iconic country estates, and venturing from coastal seaside towns up into the lochs and glens of the Scottish Highlands. To make the most of three weeks, we split our itinerary between the flexibility of a rental car and Britain’s celebrated rail system.

Here’s how we carefully mapped out every detail of this dream trip from transportation logistics to boutique accommodations located among both England & Scotland rural splendors.

Scheduling Stops:

London (5 nights) – With its world-class museums, legendary attractions, cosmopolitan dining and theater scene, we allocated nearly a week in England’s dynamic capital just to scratch the surface. Multi-day passes to top sights like The Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and the British Museum would maximize our time.

Cotswolds (3 nights) – Centrally locating ourselves in Chipping Camden allowed easy day trips to idyllic sandstone villages and bucolic rolling hills immortalized in Miss Potter films. We aimed to experience the region’s timeless charms and culinary specialties like cream teas.

Bath (2 nights) – The allure of admiring Georgian architecture from this Roman-era hot springs town during overnight stays proved irresistible. Planned highlights included visits to the thermae baths and evening strolls along the scenic River Avon.

Cornwall (3 nights) – Basing ourselves out of coastal Penzance in Southwest England gave us a foothold to explore the dramatic seaside cliffs, fishing villages and fertile interior gardens of the Cornish countryside. Highlights included scrambling over the medieval ruins of Tintagel Castle.

Lake District (2 nights) – A tranquil pause in Ambleside would afford scenic hikes through lush Cumbrian valleys and charming hamlets like Grasmere and Rydal beloved by Wordsworth and the Romantic poets.

Edinburgh (3 nights) – We’d take advantage of exceptional self-guided walking tours to savor the Scottish capital’s compact layout and storied historic sights like Edinburgh Castle, the Old Town and Holyrood Palace.

Scottish Highlands (5 nights) – After the cities and rail travel, we craved disconnecting amidst the Highlands’ remote villages, heathered hills and mysterious lochs. Upgrading to a rental car would allow us to set our own pace while based in seaside Portree on the Isle of Skye.

Getting Around:

For the southern England portion, a rental car was essential for maximum flexibility and convenience in reaching the rural villages and countryside attractions. Automatic transmission and GPS were must-haves for navigating narrow country lanes with confidence. We requested an economy manual diesel car with plenty of leg room and trunk space for 3 weeks of luggage.

In Scotland, the big decision was whether to continue driving or swap to rail/bus. We ended up opting for a combined approach: Train transfers from London to Edinburgh and the Highlands, with exploring the remote Isle of Skye and Western lochs by rental car after Edinburgh.

To maximize our rail passes, we reserved lie-flat sleeper berths for the extended overnight journeys like London to Inverness. For shorter regional hops, first class BritRail passes allowed effortless transfers without pre-booking seats. Careful scheduling would help minimize any rail stations with harrowing stair-climbing.

Accommodations:

With such a geographically sweeping itinerary covering rural areas and remote islands, we wanted a mix of boutique hotels, charming inns and B&Bs befitting the local character. Given the specific amenities needed – free parking, airport proximity, laundry facilities – our best strategy proved booking direct with individual properties.

In the cities we splurged on well-reviewed central hotels like the Z Hotel Soho in London and Old Town Chambers in Edinburgh. But the real indulgences were smaller inns and manors to experience classic country hospitality like the Lakeview Manor B&B on Lake Windermere and Kinloch Lodge Hotel & Restaurant on the Isle of Skye.

Another key amenity was ensuring in-room internet connectivity to assist with mapping routes and staying in touch with family back home. Various apps and web tools like Tripit, Lightroom Mobile and Google Translate would help streamline the tech logistics of making reservations, editing photos and communicating with locals.

If anything summed up our thorough trip planning and attention to detail, it was scouring dozens of tour operators and online resources to curate a flexible menu of experiential enrichments and side activities like:

• Private black cab London city tours tailored to our specific interests

• Guided day trips to Windsor, Stonehenge and Stratford-Upon-Avon

• A tour and tasting at an Oxfordshire brewery

• Oxridge walking tours through Bath and the Cotswolds Villages

• A distillery experience on the Isle of Islay en route to Skye

• Haggis ceremonies and Highland activities during Skye stays

Of course the above “wish list” truly depended on our pace and spontaneous desires once in Britain – which we’d continually reevaluate and adjust accordingly throughout the journey itself. The plan outlined solid foundations, but also room for whimsy adventures driven by constantly evolving moods and inspirations.

With a hefty budget allocated for the full three weeks of accommodations, transportation, attractions, meals and side experiences, we expected to reach peak splurge zone while still preserving reasonable fiscal boundaries. The impeccable pre-trip preparation laid the groundwork, but the true adventures still awaited us beyond the hurdles of packing, getting to London, and retrieving our rental car. Once in Britain, the open backroads of the English countryside and Scottish Highlands beckoned with their timeless beauty and begged us to get delightfully, spontaneously lost.

Tips for England & Scotland Self-Driving/Rail Adventure:

• Plan out regions and anchor towns first to arrange optimal routing
• Check seasonal rates for lodging, rail passes and rental cars in advance
• Calculate fuel costs for any multi-week rental periods
• Book flexible YHA hostels or budget hotels to reset mid-trip
• Combine BritRail passes with region-specific day rovers
• Use whichever mapping apps/assistants you’re most familiar with
• Travel light and prepare for quickly changing weather patterns

Whether you have three weeks or three months to explore the pastoral landscapes and historic cities, a combined road and rail trip through England & Scotland absorbs you into the rhythms of British culture. Some days you’ll be immersed in the tranquil countryside where church bells and friendly pub chatter set the pace. Other times you find your heart racing while navigating dense urban cores steeped in frenetic commerce and history spanning the ages.

But that contrast and dichotomy ultimately lies at the heart of the British Isles’ wonders – past and present continually colliding in glorious harmony. So get out those maps, rain jackets and cameras. The twisting roads and railways await to whisk you on an epic adventure through heritage and heather. I hope this 2016 England & Scotland by Road & Rail – Pre-Trip Planning helps you,

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